Debunking Hair Straightening Myths: The Truth About Brazilian Keratin and Nanoplasty
I’ve seen a lot of misinformation floating around about hair straightening treatments. As a qualified hairdresser and cosmetic chemist, I have to admit, sometimes it makes me want to jump out of a window—haha! But instead of doing that, I’d rather use this platform to clear up the most common myths and share real science behind these treatments.
What is Keratin? What is Nanoplasty? What's the Difference?
To define the difference between keratin treatments and nanoplasty, we need to understand what these terms truly mean. Yes, terms—because that’s what they are. The difference comes down to the active ingredients used in each treatment.
When we talk about straightening systems, we’re referring to the active ingredient that actually makes the hair straight. Ingredients that improve hair health, like keratin, are found in conditioners, leave-ins, and deep treatment masks. But what makes Brazilian Keratin and Nanoplasty treatments special is their ability to straighten hair.
The confusion starts when some brands hide the main active ingredient, leading people to believe that weak acids (like lactic acid) or nano proteins straighten the hair. These ingredients help with hair health, but they don't straighten the hair. If someone tells you otherwise, they’re either misinformed about what they’re selling, or they’re underestimating your intelligence. (Sorry, I just can’t help being honest!)
The Truth About Modern Straightening Systems
Today, all the newer straightening systems—Keratin, Nanoplasty, BTX—are acidic straighteners. After formaldehyde was banned in 2007, glyoxylic acid emerged as a safer alternative for hair straightening. That’s the active ingredient commonly used now, often combined with other beneficial ingredients. But make no mistake—the ingredient responsible for straightening hair is usually glyoxylic acid or one of its derivatives, such as Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids or Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine.
The difference between treatments is in their formulation, strength, and added extras. For instance, if a product is acidic and can straighten hair, it’s likely powered by a glyoxylic acid derivative. We often call a product "BTX" when the acid concentration is lower, making it gentler.
How Glyoxylic Acid Works
Glyoxylic acid has a low molecular weight (74.04 g/mol), allowing it to penetrate the hair cortex through diffusion—without needing harsh alkaline agents, like older permanent straighteners did. Once inside the cortex, it softens and realigns the disulphide bonds, which are responsible for hair shape. This is what allows the hair to become straight. Additionally, glyoxylic acid allows smaller molecules, like hydrolyzed proteins, to penetrate the hair, providing extra benefits.
Keratin vs. Nanoplasty at PinkChic
At PinkChic, our Liss Brazil Nanoplasty can straighten most hair types in just one go, without fumes or harsh chemicals. It uses a blend of organic acids (like glyoxylic and AHAs), Vegequat®, and natural extracts to achieve smooth, sleek, and shiny hair.
Our Keratin Treatment , on the other hand, uses iCapliss (Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids) and keratin. While it also delivers amazing straightening results, it isn’t as gentle to work with as our nanoplasty.
By breaking down these terms and providing clear, science-backed information, we aim to help our hairdressers and clients make informed decisions about the products they use. At PinkChic, we believe in transparency, and we’re proud to offer safe, high-quality hair care solutions backed by real science.
By Vivi Rodrigues,
Cosmetic Chemist & Founder
PinkChic HairCare
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